We went to a snake farm for dinner - it was really exotic! We watched them being killed first....suffocated, then the blood is drained, then the gall bladder taken out, then the heart which sits on the side still beating away. A 7 course meal followed - all dishes made from the snake we watched being killed: snake spring rolls, snake skin, grilled snake, snake tail with fried vegetables, snake soup, ground snake bones, and something else I can't remember! And that's not including the snake blood and the liquid from the gall bladder. The latter is very bitter apparently, but both are mixed with the extremely strong rice wine we also tried in Sapa. Hoang also drank down the heart with one of the cups of blood.
Being a dirty vegetarian, I was very boring and stuck to fried rice and green beans. They also had porcupine at the restaurant farm. This restaurant is very famous and a big deal in Hanoi. It cost about $100 which is A LOT of money in Vietnam. Westerners do not usually go there - only better off Vietnamese, although it is situated in the poorer back streets.
It was fascinating watching the city at night in the rain on the way to the restaurant. Everyone wears big hooded macs - especially on motorbikes.
The motorbike has right of way in Vietnam! You take your life into your hands every time you step out on to the street. Often, there is effectively no pavement because they are covered with parked bikes, women selling fruit and flowers, and all kinds of food, and people sitting on small stools doing varous things, from eating, to playing cards, to grooming one another. I can't remember if I already mentioned the habit of women looking through men's hair to spot for white hairs. And women do it for women, but I haven't seen men doing it for women.
After the meal I went to a jazz club. It was so cool. A famous Vietnamese saxophonist was there (but I can't remember his name). It was a nice atmosphere and there was no fee to get in. They played lots of famous pieces and it didn't really sound different to other jazz I have heard.
Friday, October 5, 2007
Back to Hanoi
We arrived in Hanoi at 4.30am. At first, I was dreading this, but actually the city is very interesting and lively at this time. We had tea on the street while we waited for the city to warm up. It got light very suddenly and it was an amazimg site to watch women by a lake doing Tai Chi at 5am. I joined in with the Tai Chi a little, with the tour leader, which was quite relaxing, but I probably looked quite strange.
Men and women were charging around everywhere - power walking, jogging and playing badminton on the pavement! I never knew the Vietnamese were so health conscious. I guess doing exercise this early, everyone can get it out of the way before the long working day begins, and before the heat sets in.
Then we had some free time so Briony and I went to get our laundry done and managed to get lost. It turned out to be a good adventure and we saw more of Hanoi that way.
Men and women were charging around everywhere - power walking, jogging and playing badminton on the pavement! I never knew the Vietnamese were so health conscious. I guess doing exercise this early, everyone can get it out of the way before the long working day begins, and before the heat sets in.
Then we had some free time so Briony and I went to get our laundry done and managed to get lost. It turned out to be a good adventure and we saw more of Hanoi that way.
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
Bac Ha Market
We left Sapa by bus for Bac Ha and its famous market. It is mostly frequented by ethnic minorities and local people but is gradually becoming more geared up for tourists.
There were some manificent buffalo rolling around in the mud at the back of the market, just taking it easy. Although one of them became a bit leary when I tried to get too close to photo him. There was a great atmosphere there with people all gathered at the back of the market eating lunch together.
Then on to Lao Cai where we had dinner. On the way we passed the Chinese border and saw a Chinese toy market. It's fairly easy for tourists to cross the border apparently.
Finally, we borded a night train back to Hanoi.
There were some manificent buffalo rolling around in the mud at the back of the market, just taking it easy. Although one of them became a bit leary when I tried to get too close to photo him. There was a great atmosphere there with people all gathered at the back of the market eating lunch together.
Then on to Lao Cai where we had dinner. On the way we passed the Chinese border and saw a Chinese toy market. It's fairly easy for tourists to cross the border apparently.
Finally, we borded a night train back to Hanoi.
Sapa - Part 3
We left Ta Van village in two groups - one for the buff people to trek the hard, but more beautiful route, and one for the tired and weak! I would normally have put myself in the second category, but always up for a challenge, I tried to pretend I was buff and went with the former. But I was so glad I did - we passed a spectacular waterfall and sat at the top for a while. And we walked right beside the rice terraces, seein people in the early mornin, going about their daily lives.
The buff people set a buff pace - so by the end I was sweating like a pig and huffing and puffing like the wolf who tried to get him and his two friends.
My condition wasn't helped particularly by the guide who joined us for the trek, who thought it would be amusing to vigourously rock the Indiana Jones, dodgy, thrown-together, style bridge which crossed very high over a river.
In the afternoon, we did absolutely nothing, except stare and watch a crap American film - but I was so knackered I couldn't do anything else.
Later that day we (that's Briony and I) witnessed our first, and hopefully last, motorbike accident. It wasn't too bad - the only victim was a goat. I think one motorbike collided with a stationary one and the goat fell off but he was still tied to the bike so it fell with him. He didn't look mightily comfortable anyway as his neck was unnaturally tied down sideways to the rest of his body. Probably off to be slaughtered and he was bleeting so painfully.
The buff people set a buff pace - so by the end I was sweating like a pig and huffing and puffing like the wolf who tried to get him and his two friends.
My condition wasn't helped particularly by the guide who joined us for the trek, who thought it would be amusing to vigourously rock the Indiana Jones, dodgy, thrown-together, style bridge which crossed very high over a river.
In the afternoon, we did absolutely nothing, except stare and watch a crap American film - but I was so knackered I couldn't do anything else.
Later that day we (that's Briony and I) witnessed our first, and hopefully last, motorbike accident. It wasn't too bad - the only victim was a goat. I think one motorbike collided with a stationary one and the goat fell off but he was still tied to the bike so it fell with him. He didn't look mightily comfortable anyway as his neck was unnaturally tied down sideways to the rest of his body. Probably off to be slaughtered and he was bleeting so painfully.
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
Sapa - part 2
There are 5 ethnic minorities in Sapa, but three main ones. I think the people partly wear the tribal gear for the benefits of the tourists. It looks very hot.
I slapped on the suntan cream and the sun hat and we began our first trek through the unimaginably beautiful countryside of Sapa. Children and women tried to sell us things virtually during the whole trek - that's a long working day. Quite a few women and children had red circle marks on their foreheads. Apparently this is as a result of a treatment for headaches where the head is sucked with air trapped in a glass. I don't know how scientific this is, of whether it is complete superstition.
We stopped along the way and met some families who live in the hills and among the many, many stunning rice terraces. We listened to a man playing some kind of pipe, which appeared to me to be like an old fashioned bag pipe - not on its actual appearance but in the way it was played and the way it sounded. In the same house, the women made bags etc. to sell, and had dye stains all over their faces and hands.
You are not supposed to take any photos of children without first asking the permission of the parents as the people there believe that the soul is at the top of the head and that it will be stolen. I asked permission when the children or parents were looking but I have to admit to some soul stealing as well.
It was sometimes a little hard to suppress the Greedy Westerner feeling, particularly when you hear some of the ignorant and patronising comments from other westerners. My lifestyle is so far removed from the people I met in Sapa, I had to constantly question my own sensitivity as well.
The next day we trekked to a village called Ta Van to stay overnight with a family. The scenery was even more amazing today! We stopped about half way before we arrived at the village and had lunch. Lots of children were hanging around us and we took loads of photos. The boys were all carefree and having the time of their life goofing around with one another and posing for our photos. The girls, on the other hand, all appeared very sad and sombre. They did not play but just tried to sell us things or watched on from a distance, which was really sad. Eventually, our tour leader spoke to them and they smiled a bit but the did not stop trying to sell. The boys said they went to school in the morning.
A little girl called Chi befriended me when we arrived in the village. Although I knew that her aim was to get me to buy something eventually - a whistle, a keyring, a bracelet, a cushion cover, a blanket, etc. - I went along with it because she was so charming and spoke such good English (learns it in school as well), I enjoyed speaking to her. She made me a crown and a bunch of flowers made up out of woven grass and other materials, in remarkably quick time. They were incredibly intricate and I was taken aback by this girl's talent! I caved in this time and bought a bracelet - it was very nice anyway and only cost 10 000D (about 30p) - it wasn't exactly going to break me. It's just such a shame that she has to spend her energies and talents selling to tourists. It's a 2 hour trip to get to school in the morning, and then selling all afternoon and evening before going home. She was only about ten years of age. Another girl who had walked up to the home stay with us would not go home until she had sold something. She was crying and guilt tripping, and all sorts. It was horrible to watch. It seemed that she probably wasn't allowed to go home perhaps, until she had sold something.
Even though the town was so remote, there was phone signal and internet in the house!
In the evening we played cards. One of the local people living in the house came to play with us and taught us some of his language while he played, although he was very pissed on the 'Rice Wine', which is a very strong alcohol that you should take in shots. Deadly stuff. He had this 'happy water' in a water bottle and was getting through it at a worrying pace.
I slapped on the suntan cream and the sun hat and we began our first trek through the unimaginably beautiful countryside of Sapa. Children and women tried to sell us things virtually during the whole trek - that's a long working day. Quite a few women and children had red circle marks on their foreheads. Apparently this is as a result of a treatment for headaches where the head is sucked with air trapped in a glass. I don't know how scientific this is, of whether it is complete superstition.
We stopped along the way and met some families who live in the hills and among the many, many stunning rice terraces. We listened to a man playing some kind of pipe, which appeared to me to be like an old fashioned bag pipe - not on its actual appearance but in the way it was played and the way it sounded. In the same house, the women made bags etc. to sell, and had dye stains all over their faces and hands.
You are not supposed to take any photos of children without first asking the permission of the parents as the people there believe that the soul is at the top of the head and that it will be stolen. I asked permission when the children or parents were looking but I have to admit to some soul stealing as well.
It was sometimes a little hard to suppress the Greedy Westerner feeling, particularly when you hear some of the ignorant and patronising comments from other westerners. My lifestyle is so far removed from the people I met in Sapa, I had to constantly question my own sensitivity as well.
The next day we trekked to a village called Ta Van to stay overnight with a family. The scenery was even more amazing today! We stopped about half way before we arrived at the village and had lunch. Lots of children were hanging around us and we took loads of photos. The boys were all carefree and having the time of their life goofing around with one another and posing for our photos. The girls, on the other hand, all appeared very sad and sombre. They did not play but just tried to sell us things or watched on from a distance, which was really sad. Eventually, our tour leader spoke to them and they smiled a bit but the did not stop trying to sell. The boys said they went to school in the morning.
A little girl called Chi befriended me when we arrived in the village. Although I knew that her aim was to get me to buy something eventually - a whistle, a keyring, a bracelet, a cushion cover, a blanket, etc. - I went along with it because she was so charming and spoke such good English (learns it in school as well), I enjoyed speaking to her. She made me a crown and a bunch of flowers made up out of woven grass and other materials, in remarkably quick time. They were incredibly intricate and I was taken aback by this girl's talent! I caved in this time and bought a bracelet - it was very nice anyway and only cost 10 000D (about 30p) - it wasn't exactly going to break me. It's just such a shame that she has to spend her energies and talents selling to tourists. It's a 2 hour trip to get to school in the morning, and then selling all afternoon and evening before going home. She was only about ten years of age. Another girl who had walked up to the home stay with us would not go home until she had sold something. She was crying and guilt tripping, and all sorts. It was horrible to watch. It seemed that she probably wasn't allowed to go home perhaps, until she had sold something.
Even though the town was so remote, there was phone signal and internet in the house!
In the evening we played cards. One of the local people living in the house came to play with us and taught us some of his language while he played, although he was very pissed on the 'Rice Wine', which is a very strong alcohol that you should take in shots. Deadly stuff. He had this 'happy water' in a water bottle and was getting through it at a worrying pace.
Monday, October 1, 2007
Sapa - part one
It is a very different atmosphere in Sapa, from other parts of Vietnam that we have visited so far. It is colder because it is higher up and can actaully get chilly in the evenings even though it is stiflingly hot during the day. I was a little disorientated when we arrived in this remote tribal town, to be greeted immediately by young children, dressed in traditional clothing (I think the name of their ethnic minority is 'Mong' people) speaking good English with crisp American accents - much better English than any other Vietnamese I had spoken to before. I wondered why this was and asked Hoang. He said that it was because a lot of the children (who's charm and friendliness is primarily in order to sell you things) don't go to school, and learn their English from meeting tourists. The people in his town don't seem to stop working - trying to sell things from early in the morning until late at night.
During the trek we were informed that all Vietnamese people are happy that things are 'changing' in Vietnam. The five point star on the national flag (with each point representing the peasant, the worker, the intellectual etc.) will apparently soon be changed to include a sixth point - for the tour guide.
During the trek we were informed that all Vietnamese people are happy that things are 'changing' in Vietnam. The five point star on the national flag (with each point representing the peasant, the worker, the intellectual etc.) will apparently soon be changed to include a sixth point - for the tour guide.
Boat Cruise and National Park
On 18th September, we went on a boat cruise to Cat Ba Island. It was absolutely stunning! Soon, I will have to try and upload some pictures becuase my descriptions will not do justice to some of the sights I've seen - neither will the photos, but they will help.
We had lunch lunch on the boat, which was more like a feast. How can Vietnamese people eat so much and still be so small? Being an awkward vegetarian, I get lots of my of dishes, and end up with even more food than anyone else!
We saw floating fish farms and houses on the water, which were fascinating. It seems to be a fairly laid back way of earning a living, compared to some other jobs here. We went kayaking which was great becauase it meant we could be even closer to the life on the water. We stopped off on a mini island to have a rest. The exercise showed how unfit I still am!
The next day we went to a national park which was an amazing experience. We trekked through jungle territory and were advised to put on insect repellant, and a bloody good thing too as the place was swarming. We still got bitten but not too badly. I brought a zapper contraction with me which relieves the itching from bites by puncturing the skin with static electricity. It's very effective but I overdid it that day and couldn't move my ankle properly as I slightly paralysed it with too many zaps...
We trekked up and up and up, sometimes negotiating very chalenging terrain which felt almost vertical - but rock climbers would probably tell me what we did was nothing. But I'm no rock climber.
There were rare birds and monkies there but unfortunately we didn't see any.
We stopped off afterwards to see a hospital used by soldiers during the war - it was a concrete block hidden high up.
Then we jumped on a ferry for a couple of hours and I managed to sleep, which was really refreshing as I have hardly had a decent night's sleep since I arrived in Vietnam thanks to one of the side effects of my malaria tablets. They can give you bad dreams - and they certainly do - I've had everything from bizarre and surreal to quite harrowing! The heat and noise don't help either.
When we arrived on land there were lots of men offering lifts on motorbikes - the primary way of getting around in Vietnam. Soon, helmets will be compulsory everywhere, but I wonder whether this will apply to babies and youg children who sometimes squeeze on the vehicles three, four at time wiht their parents. And it's common to see a very young child/toddler supporting itself with just its hands or feet on the front, resting in the legs of the driver. But the only accident I've seen so far has involved a goat - more on that later.
Then we got a night train to Sapa. We played cards with some of the group before trying to sleep It was really fun - we learnt a version of 'Shithead' from our tour leader, Hoang.
We had lunch lunch on the boat, which was more like a feast. How can Vietnamese people eat so much and still be so small? Being an awkward vegetarian, I get lots of my of dishes, and end up with even more food than anyone else!
We saw floating fish farms and houses on the water, which were fascinating. It seems to be a fairly laid back way of earning a living, compared to some other jobs here. We went kayaking which was great becauase it meant we could be even closer to the life on the water. We stopped off on a mini island to have a rest. The exercise showed how unfit I still am!
The next day we went to a national park which was an amazing experience. We trekked through jungle territory and were advised to put on insect repellant, and a bloody good thing too as the place was swarming. We still got bitten but not too badly. I brought a zapper contraction with me which relieves the itching from bites by puncturing the skin with static electricity. It's very effective but I overdid it that day and couldn't move my ankle properly as I slightly paralysed it with too many zaps...
We trekked up and up and up, sometimes negotiating very chalenging terrain which felt almost vertical - but rock climbers would probably tell me what we did was nothing. But I'm no rock climber.
There were rare birds and monkies there but unfortunately we didn't see any.
We stopped off afterwards to see a hospital used by soldiers during the war - it was a concrete block hidden high up.
Then we jumped on a ferry for a couple of hours and I managed to sleep, which was really refreshing as I have hardly had a decent night's sleep since I arrived in Vietnam thanks to one of the side effects of my malaria tablets. They can give you bad dreams - and they certainly do - I've had everything from bizarre and surreal to quite harrowing! The heat and noise don't help either.
When we arrived on land there were lots of men offering lifts on motorbikes - the primary way of getting around in Vietnam. Soon, helmets will be compulsory everywhere, but I wonder whether this will apply to babies and youg children who sometimes squeeze on the vehicles three, four at time wiht their parents. And it's common to see a very young child/toddler supporting itself with just its hands or feet on the front, resting in the legs of the driver. But the only accident I've seen so far has involved a goat - more on that later.
Then we got a night train to Sapa. We played cards with some of the group before trying to sleep It was really fun - we learnt a version of 'Shithead' from our tour leader, Hoang.
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