Another day in Hanoi

Tuesday 25th September 2007
Ahhhh, I had a lie-in - glorious! And much needed.
In the morning, a few of us went to the museum of fine arts in Hanoi. I liked a lot of the art but there was hardly any factual information for the average ignorant Westerner to absorb. Apparently, this is because it is thought of as patronising to accompany displays of artwork with lots of writing about its significance and context.
In the afternoon we went to see the famous water puppetry show. It was fantastic, I thought. Most of the group were not that inspired and didn't like the music very much. But I absolutely loved it. The extroardinary, wavering tones of the two female singers, who were acting as some kind of chorus to the action, as far as I could tell (everything was Vietnamese).

I had never heard anything like it before - it was very traditional music and sounds a little screechy at first. But after a while, I really began to enjoy the melodies and the tone became more beautiful. It was very rhythmic too, at times. It reminded me of some Irish and English folk music.
I nearly got run over 3 times today by motorbikes. Everyone beeps their horns continuously but no-one pays any attention - neither the pedestrians or the other drivers. So, I tried to do the same, but that's quite difficult when a motorcyclist is ruthlessly heading towards you.
As I already mentioned, the pavements are so busy with parked motorbikes and improvised stalls that you are constantly forced on to the road, to dance with the motorbikes, hoping that you will arrive at your destination in one piece - no doubt more by luck than judgement. Although it sounds awful to admit it, as a tourist, there is a certain amount of relief to step into the decadence of an air-conditioned hotel lobby. It would be easier to spend longer on the streets if it were possible to blend into the background, to observe the life going on there. But with my pasty white face and clunky traveller's clothes, that's never going to happen.

We caught a night train to Hue, which was pretty skanky but it did the job.